Sunday 21 June 2020

21.06.2020 Summarising recent [slow] progress.

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At this stage I am inevitably wondering if a Leica-Lumix 100-400mm zoom lens would not have been more "instantly gratifying" in providing better images almost from scratch. Though the long focus lens probably lacks the incredible "reach" of the digiscoping system to bring the very distant birds much closer. 100-400 with 4/3 [x2 crop factor] is 200-800mm equivalent in 35mm camera terms. Digiscoping can easily double that. Though with considerable, added complexity and moment arm. Many professionals can use these long lenses and even digiscoping telescopes handheld! 

My age does not bode well for memorizing all the G9's menus in only a few short hours. I might print out the menus to save wasted time button pressing and failing to achieve my purpose first time. There is also the struggle in my seeing the tiny viewing screen and symbols. Which require my strongest reading glasses. Though, fortunately, I find the G9 viewfinder is much easier to use.

During today's digiscoping session I was often seeing much sharper images in the viewfinder than I actually captured. Particularly at the 60x power on the Kowa. Which was necessary to give useful size to birds near the distant shores. I must assume my images are suffering from camera shake from manually depressing the shutter. While remote shutter release is easily achieved it does not make the birds sit still for long. So some panning and tilting is inevitable.

Printing out the G9 menus at a suitably large size, for rapid reading legibility, will provide ready reference material. Without needing any glasses at all. Experts will confirm that practice is 90% of achieving any real skill. "Beginners luck" is only ever intended to encourage the wannabe expert. If it were too easy it would not be worth doing and everybody would become an expert overnight.

There is a [so called] 10,000 hour rule to achieve full expertise. However that equates to four years of full time activity. Listening to professional wildlife photographers on their YT videos convinced me that most of them are highly intelligent. That most of them have studied their chosen "prey" and delved deeply into all aspects of their craft. Most of them have "high end" equipment and know it inside out. However, is certainly not that alone which provides the stunning images they capture. Their choice of equipment does not hinder the application of their skills.

There is so much which goes unspoken because they have stopped thinking about it. One can still learn much from their commentaries. The direction of the sun, the wind direction. The time of day. Is the tide coming in or going out? Learning all the varieties and names of their quarry. There are so many factors which have to be absorbed just to achieve basic competence.

Then there are the years of practice at swinging large lenses manually to capture birds in flight. The long and antisocial hours just waiting for something to appear. Learning the habits of their subjects. Which many amateurs would avoid for themselves. Simply because it is too much trouble and they can always rely on luck. Or a tip-off about a rare sighting on the grapevine.

While the Manfrotto 055 tripod is quite stiff it is asking a lot for it to cope with the magnifications [equivalent focal length] of digiscoping. In 4/3 camera terms using the pancake 20mm then 25x = 1000mm. While 60x = 2400mm. These figures are taken from Kowa's own digiscoping website.

These extreme focal lengths are not usable without taking great care to avoid system movement during the exposure. Very fast shutter speeds are highly desirable. Except that the telescope/camera system will struggle to achieve these. The aperture/equivalent focal length will make for a relatively "slow" system. 1000/88 = f:11.4. 2400/88 = f:27!  There is no free lunch. Raising the ISO helps and is vital to obtaining faster shutter speeds. Rigidity of the support system is vital. Cable or wireless release can help if the subject is stationary.

Remember that depth of field is also poor at extreme focal lengths. Though this depends on distance. Some birds stay still. Lots more don't. I have discovered to my cost [in poor results] that even a dozing and floating bird is rarely still. They drift on the slightest breeze. With the inevitably small field of view the bird rapidly moves completely out of sight unless you pan. Which means you can't lock down the tripod head in the vain hope of greater stiffness. I kept trying that and then needed to pan and tilt to follow a drifting bird.

One of the advantages of digiscoping is the [usually] considerable distance between yourself and your subject matter. So they are much less likely to be nervous and fly [or run] off as a result. My local Grebe has the habit of vanishing underwater in an instant. Usually without the slightest sign of preparation for an extended dive.

Waiting until the bird presents a pleasing pose is usually a lost cause. The diving obviously takes a toll on its plumage. So it spends time preening. The resulting contortions are rather unlikely to make attractive stills. Though video is far more forgiving and even quite entertaining.

As I packed up all my kit, to cycle home, I noticed the curious ducks and grebes had come to see what was happening. None of them had come near the shore while I was standing behind my tripod. Typical! 😊


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21.06.2020 Grebes, shelducks and camera problems.

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Sunday 21st June. First outing with the Kowa 884 'scope and Lumix G9. I had the Lumix 20mm F1.7 'pancake' lens on the camera. With the Kowa DA-10 digiscoping adapter on the 12-60x Kowa zoom eyepiece to join it all together.  

The initial problem was not pushing the DA-10 adapter together firmly enough. There is some leeway thanks to the broad groove inside the outer barrel. So that I had vignetting of the first few images. Once discovered, I pushed the DA-10 fully together and this raised another problem. 

The 20mm lens is not completely static in operation. It actually telescopes/trombones slightly during an auto exposure. This may have caused the G9 shutter to refuse to operate after [say] half a dozen exposures. The shutter button simply did not respond. So that I had to turn the camera off to reset it. Then it was good for another half a dozen snaps before refusing a shutter press again. Just occasionally there was a rough sounding buzz. Suggesting a stepper motor struggling or stalling somewhere.

Setting the camera to Manual focusing did not help. I was adjusting the 20mm focus ring but the camera shutter still stalled after another half dozen shots. Could there be a mechanical clearance problem within the Kowa DA-10?

Standing in long grass under a shady tree beside a small lake is not the ideal place to be checking clearances. The sound and the odd refusal might have been the result of how I was holding the camera.

Or how I was resting my hands on it to reach the shutter. This might have put strain on the 20mm focusing mechanism by increasing friction above the mechanically tolerable level. I have seen digiscopers using a long, camera plate extension. This reached right back to the underside of the camera body to provide extra support at the tripod bush. Not a difficult task to whip one up out of scrap aluminium to see if it helps.

It certainly isn't normal to hang a heavy camera, like the G9, from its lens, filter thread. The image shows the Kowa TSN-PS1 camera support bracket for their straight-through 'scopes. Now shown as discontinued by some dealers. Kowa pricey in those still with stock. A similar support device is easily copied in aluminium [or carbon fiber?] to take most of the camera's weight off the pancake lens. 

Despite all these setbacks and frustrations I still captured 204 more images and some videos. The grebe at the top was one of today's first and the best of my captures so far. Probably 60 yards away at the time. Though the image was heavily vignetted just behind the bird. Fortunately I was able to crop the original images down to 2000 pixels and then resize further for the blog. I usually post images at 1000 or 1200 pixels maximum. [3:4 or 16:9 respectively.]

I have years of very basic, image processing experience for my blogs. For which I still use PhotoFiltre7 to crop and resize.

Many of my other images today were poor to below average. I see this as all part of the steep learning curve. Both the new camera and the new telescope need much more familiarization before I will feel fully comfortable at operating them to a sufficiently high standard on "auto pilot."

The Kowa '884 is stunningly sharp and clear when used visually. It never fails to delight at the incredible purity of its images. Similarly, my ageing Nikon Monarch 5 binoculars truly excelled in today's brightly sunlit conditions on the lake.

The clarity and sense of depth and immersion in the scene was almost magical. I have found the Nikon supplied, bino-bag. Which was put away as unnecessary for my usual walks. So now I can carry the binoculars safely in my saddle bag without worrying about capping the lenses.

This was one of my average images of a 100 yard distant Shelduck. A pair with young were cruising up and down near the opposite shore. The sun was in completely the wrong direction for most of the time. With their faces in deep shadow. Just occasionally they would turn round to check their chicks which were following the adults.

The Lumix G9 is still only a few days from arriving in the post. A superb camera in the right hands. Though mine are still fumbling, despite having watched dozens of YT videos on the camera and its settings and use.

I am already up to 1300 images after only three days of intensive familiarization. Mostly landscapes and garden shots to try out the complex settings.


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21.06.2020 Video head basic design problems.

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The weight of the camera needs the whole digiscoping system shifting forwards to achieve balance. Making the standard, Manfrotto, sliding plate look very silly indeed. I already have a longer plate on order after messing up by ordering a 357PLONG which didn't fit the Manfrotto 500 head!

The new plate will not be a Manfrotto. In fact the whole concept of the "video" head is a complete non-starter. Except [possibly] for a modest camera body and short lens. iue.e One which remains well within the very limited capacity of the fluid drag system.

This very silly design places ALL of the camera system mass well above the pivot. Which is way down at the bottom. Where the bright red ring rudely pokes its tongue out at its deluded buyers. Like myself. I should never have encouraged them by actually purchasing one of these heads for digiscoping!

The very low pivot accentuates any imbalance by causing droop at the front or rear. Adding "fluid" damping is just the manufacturer cynically admitting the whole design is simply crap.

The mass, deliberately arranged so far above the pivot, acts as an inverted pendulum. You could add long, vertical arms with counterweights sited well below the pivot. Except that nobody [sensible] wants the extra weight, bulk and complication to carry around. There is only one place where a vertical pivot will work without constantly changing balance issues. That is at the centre of gravity of the entire system within the small upper [red] ring.

The drawing over the image shows the problem. Any imbalance is amplified by the poor sighting of the low, vertical axis or pivot point. The small upper ring shows where the centre of gravity of the system resides. The large ring shows how the high centre of mass rotates around the very low pivot. As soon as the telescope system, or long lens, exceeds the tipping point it immediately does a nose dive!

In a digiscoping system even the control arm works against the user!  It adds mass on the wrong end of the long lever of moment. [Mass x distance from the pivot] I could achieve better balance if I moved the arm to the front! Where is is foolishly unreachable. I could obtain even better balance if I added a lead weight to the far end of the arm! Even the arm itself is an open admission that this design of video head is crap unless you are supporting only a small camera body and short lens.

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